A Week in Brazil – Day 6 of São Paulo Fashion Week
The brand opening the last day of shows was the youthful Cavalera, inspired by Salvador, capital of the northeastern state of Bahia. All the contrasts and cultures that are so unique to the city are evident in the line. It was through this state of mind that the brand portrayed the beauty of the beaches and the harshness of the urban life of the city. Their womenswear line had patterning inspired by Portuguese tiling, dusty flowers, and beads. The clothes had their own movement, lightness, and textures done in copper wiring. Everything was closer to the body, and pieces had cut-outs and layering in shiny fabrics that looked like they had been dipped in resin. Jeans, linen with metal threading, lace, and macramé made from eco-leather were the brand’s choices of material. A special detail which complimented the looks perfectly were the heavy shoes made from metal and leather. And of course, since we’re speaking of Cavalera, the pieces were all dotted with glam elements of rock ‘n roll. It was “Salvador Rock” by Cavalera!
André Lima was the second designer to show his collection on the last day. Moved by the Amazon, he took the opportunity to abuse feathers, turtle shell, crocodiles, and a mixture of ethnicities creating images that looked far from obvious on the runway. While the tailoring was sophisticated and meant for the night, the fluid dresses were an invitation to dream, move and be freec with their light frills, cinched waists, and fluid fabrics. The designer, a specialist in moulange (a technique that involves constructing an outfit directly on the mannequin), was able to make his technique quite visible in each and every piece in the collection, from the hot pants worn with pointed bikini tops to the flowing silk dresses. It was impeccable.
The debuting brand Têca by Helô Rocha was inspired in Jules Verne’s Around the World in Eighty Days. From this universe, the designer confectioned a young woman searching for a strong image on which to base her look. Among the most impressive forms were the structured tailored pieces. The kaleidoscopic prints showcased balloons, ropes, world maps, and the quadrant. Special notice should be given to the looser dresses which were paired with resin and leather accessories, such as the canteen bag. As a result, what we saw was a very jovial and fresh collection.
For this season’s collection, Fernanda Yamamoto put her own spin on the work of the Latin American artists Hélio Oiticica and Luis Barragán. Well known for her study of unusual fabrics, Yamamoto presented a collection that celebrated a combination of geometric shapes and folding. Colors were the main characters playing in a field of mixture and effects, and were most often present in yellow, purple, orange, pink, red, and green. The pieces were either tighter and structured, or ample. When it came to the raw materials used, there was a juxtaposition of levity and weight, such as cottons, tulles, and plastic-looking organza, as well as other fabrics with unexpected textures. Very irreverent.
Cool and fresh was Amapô, with a collection inspired on summer itself. The brand bet on a fun combination of cups, fruits, and scenery, and created prints that were both vibrant and colourful. Colors such as orange, yellow, pink, blue, green, lilac, and white were seen on silk, lurex, and straw crochet. An interesting detail in the womenswear line were the tubular bead fringes that dotted some of the pieces. In menswear, the vibe was set by tailoring which packed up the body in tunics and saruels. Inspired in voyages, and all the images of traveling by boat, the collection took the audience on a fashion cruise.
Samuel Cirnansk, who took three months to finalize a collection that was 90% handmade, was the last designer to close this season’s SPFW. The designer strengthened the image of his atelier brand with a runway show populated by beautiful nymphs, and ethereal goddesses that live around lakes, rivers, the woods, and forests. These womanly figures walked in luxurious dresses, long or short, and which many times revealed their lingerie. Pieces also showcased highly detailed beadwork that pared pearls, crystals, corals, and nacre, as well as delicate flowers and ivy embroidery on tulles, laces, musseline, and silk mesh. Colors were nude, pearl, white, and abalone. It was truly enchanting.
And so it ends. This season’s São Paulo Fashion Week presented to us 32 fantastic shows by the top Brazilian brands, who together set the stage for what will be the main trends of the Summer 2013 season. While all pieces and designs deserve a standing ovation, we would like to give a special round of applause to what we thought were this season’s highlights. Among our favourites came Triton, Paula de Raia, João Pimenta, André Lima, Adriana Degreas, and Osklen. Tomorrow we’ll be bringing to you the 10 top tendencies spotted during Brazil’s most prestigious runways shows, so that you can enjoy them in advance this summer in Vancouver.
Lívia Soares e Olivia Fellows