A Week in Brazil – Day 5 of São Paulo Fashion Week
Reinaldo Lourenço was the first to open SPFW’s fifth day. With the theme “The Sun as Witness,” the designer’s collection was inspired by the summer spirit, Italian Riva boats, and the high couture of the 1960’s. The nautical universe came to life in gorgeous dresses and luxurious clothes with oval shapes constructed not so close to the body. The clothes also showcased visible stitching and eyelets which enhanced the loose shapes around the shoulders and simulated raglan sleeves. Turquoise, magenta, yellow, pink, tangerine, crème, white, and Mediterranean blues dotted the collection. The prints which resembled the wood of the Riva boats were sophisticated, along with the designer’s choice of fabric: zibeline, silk jacquards, and micro-matelasses. With each look came a sigh.
The second show, by designer R. Rosner was inspired on the moment when Hungary freed itself from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, at a time when noble ladies would incorporate elements of peasants’ clothing to Western outfits in support of revolutionaries. The result was translated in prints and beadwork that were at times delicate, and at other times extravagant in pleated or bombacha-style skirts and dresses. The fabrics used were lots of laces, silk organza, tulle, and zibeline in mostly black and white. Special attention should be given to the beautiful combinations of crystals with transparencies, laces, and beadwork put together in single pieces. A homage to nobility.
And then came Glória Coelho with her unique eye for futuristic design. This season, the designer put together a collection that embodied both quantic systems and holographs. Stripes were spread apart in all different directions but came together through the impeccable tailoring that is so innate to the brand. Materials such as transparent fabrics or other that resembled plastic showed that technology and luxury can come together. Leather came with acetate crepe, silk organza, zibeline, cotton, among others. The summer coats this season are pelerines, and we also saw interesting low and rounded sleeves with inverted zippers. Colors were sand, red, white, blue, black, grey, orange and fuchsia. It was all pure luxury.
Alexandre Herchovitch’s menswear summer line was inspired in Japan during the time of WWII. The clothes were reminiscent of the austerity of military garb and the fashion of the 40s, and at the same time carried the strength of today’s times. We saw pleats, high waists, funnelled legs, trousers that were slighty short, detailing on the shoulders, and a strong retro scent. The prints were beautiful and brought a spin on the traditional camouflage patterning. Here, they were created from the image of waves and skulls in tones of blue, or night scenery in tones of purple.
SPFW first-timer Vitorino Campos showed a tightly knit collection this season. Based on the simplicity of shapes, the clothing was dotted with a 60’s kind of sophistication. The dress that opened his show was black, tight around the knees, straight cut, and on the back, a golden zipper that finished the piece perfectly. And then came tube dresses, structured skirts, pencil skirts, and shirts that were structured around the shoulders. The materials were noble such as satin and silk organza, and colors were black, white, and salmon. We’re definitely excited to see him again.
And to close off the day came Lino Villaventura, with a performance piece that brought out a large variety of dresses. From short and structured to long and dramatic, everything had lots of shine, crystals, and unexpected cut-outs. For pieces that were simpler and cleaner, the designer chose pure silk taffeta, organza, silk gauze, crepe de chine, jacquard, or a from of extremely sophisticated linen. The result was a collection complete with revealing transparencies and textures. The menswear line was somewhat less dense, but also explored the possibilities of each fabric. Special mention should be made to the crystals applied to create strategic designs, or even lizards. Colors were nude, pearl, purple, red, grey, white, and metallic tones such as silver, copper, and bronze. An exuberant and abstract way to end the day.